This past week I spent with classmates in Venice for the Biennale. In order to try and organise my thoughts, I will divide this post up into three sections, the first of which will be my thoughts about the trip in general and Venice, the city, in particular; next I will concentrate on the Biennale and finally on some of the works which I viewed and enjoyed.
VENEZIA
I awoke at 4.00 AM in order to make final preparations and to consume enough coffee to get to the bus stop and catch the 35 to the Airport at 4.45. I had packed the night before, so was able to simply take care of my morning ablutions, dress, and imbibe caffeine with a few minutes to spare. The trip through the airport was smooth and uneventful and I had made it into the plane with the rest of the MFAs on the trip. We settled in and flew away.
We arrived at Marco Polo Airport where we caught the bus to Venice. Being an island, Venice does not have room for an airport, so there are two nearby, Marco Polo and Treviso. The bus dropped us at the train/bus station, Venezia Santa Lucia, in the middle of the western edge of Venice. From here we divided because our lodgings were in different locations; one group in a flat called Academia II, another to one called Castello and a third in the Santa Margherita Guesthouse. My group, Jake, Tim, Tam, Emma and me, were headed for the Academia II which ended up being on the Calle Dei Tedeschi. We walked in a slow semi-circle south and east, crossing canals and wending our way through the narrow alleyways of Venice until we arrived at the dock near our flat. Here we met our key bearer who showed us who to get to the flat itself and inside. The flat itself was smaller than I was expecting and smelled of mould, but was serviceable. We had our own kitchen and bath and although it was cozy, we were able to sleep five without any complaints.
We spent our first day settling in and wandering about. I did a bit of exploring on my own, with my camera, and managed to get some interesting shots of Venice. Venice is a city that seems suspended in a state of glamorous decay. Nothing appears new, but so much is breathtakingly beautiful. There are no cars and I saw only one bicycle while I was there. The canals provide a transportation network on the water – water taxis, gondolas and barges – that allows for an alternative to walking. Most people walk because that’s the most practical way of getting around. The bridges over the canals are stairs rather than ramps, and the spaces between buildings which make up the streets would get termed as alleys in another city. Many of the streets are only wide enough to walk two abreast, while others you could drive a care down if you could get it there. Every neighbourhood seems to have a piazza or two and every piazza has a well. These wells connect to a cistern where rainwater is collected and stored, and though they do not seem to be used at all today, they were once the main source of fresh water in Venice.
LA BIENNALE
Each evening we would meet up as a group (all 13 of us) and get dinner and/or drinks, but during the day, we tended to stay in our housing groups or split up while we were at the Biennale, meeting for lunch or other prearranged times. The Biennale was open until 6pm, with two main sites, the Arsenale and the Giardini. The Gardens were created during Napoleonic times and in 1894 the main pavilion was built. The Biennale webpage explains that the national pavilions were added later.
The pavilions were built over the years, in the following chronological order (name of the architect in brackets): 1907 Belgium (Léon Sneyens); 1909 Hungary (Géza Rintel Maróti); 1909 Germany (Daniele Donghi), demolished and rebuilt in 1938 (Ernst Haiger); 1909 Great Britain (Edwin Alfred Rickards); 1912 France (Umberto Bellotto); 1912 Netherlands (Gustav Ferdinand Boberg), demolished and rebuilt in 1953 (Gerrit Thomas Rietveld); 1914 Russia (Aleksej V. Scusev); 1922 Spain (Javier De Luque) façade renovated in 1952 by Joaquin Vaquero Palacios; 1926 Czech Republic and Slovak Republic (Otakar Novotny); 1930 United States of America (Chester Holmes Aldrich and William Adams Delano); 1932 Denmark (Carl Brummer) enlarged in 1958 by Peter Koch; 1932 Padiglione Venezia (Brenno Del Giudice), enlarged in 1938; 1934 Austria (Josef Hoffmann); 1934 Greece (M. Papandréou – B. Del Giudice); 1952 Israel (Zeev Rechter); 1952 Switzerland (Bruno Giacometti); 1954Venezuela (Carlo Scarpa); 1956 Japan (Takamasa Yoshizaka); 1956 Finland (Alvar Aalto Pavilion); 1958 Canada (Gruppo BBPR, Gian Luigi Banfi, Ludovico Barbiano di Belgiojoso, Enrico Peressutti, Ernesto Nathan Rogers); 1960 Uruguay; 1962 Nordic Countries: Sweden, Norway, Finland (Sverre Fehn); 1964 Brazil (Amerigo Marchesin); 1987 Australia (Philip Cox); 1995 Korea (Seok Chul Kim and Franco Mancuso).
Each pavilion is a marvel in and of itself. The architecture varies from Neo-classical to more contemporary forms, but they all seem to fit well into the setting. The Main pavilion was used to house the Encyclopaedic Palace, a show based on a concept by Marino Auriti who designed a museum to house all the world’s knowledge together in one place. Although the majority of artists represented are still living, the show does seem to collect a wide variety of pieces and styles from the past century.
The title chosen by curator Massimiliano Gioni for the 55th International Art Exhibition is Il Palazzo Enciclopedico / The Encyclopedic Palace. Massimiliano Gioni introduced the choice of theme evoking the Italo-American self-taught artist Marino Auriti who “on November 16, 1955 filed a design with the US Patent office depicting his Palazzo Enciclopedico (The Encyclopedic Palace), an imaginary museum that was meant to house all worldly knowledge, bringing together the greatest discoveries of the human race, from the wheel to the satellite. Auriti’s plan was never carried out, of course, but the dream of universal, all-embracing knowledge crops up throughout history, as one that eccentrics like Auriti share with many other artists, writers, scientists, and prophets who have tried – often in vain – to fashion an image of the world that will capture its infinite variety and richness.”
The National Pavilions are just that. Each one houses an artist or artists that represent that nation. For me, the National Pavilions worked better than the Palace, since you were rarely bombarded by more than a handful of ideas at a time and you had the chance to digest what you had seem while you walked from one pavilion to the next. The Palace was like a never-ending art gallery with hundreds or possibly thousands of different artists, themes, styles, concepts and ideas constantly vying for attention. Although I saw a lot of wonderful artworks in there, without my camera I would have forgotten so many simply because of the sheer, overwhelming spectacle of it all.
The Arsenale is located in another area of Venice, and housed even more art. As the world has grown smaller, more and more nations want to exhibit at the Biennale and there is simply not enough room at the Giardini. The Arsenale is a complex of buildings which were used for manufacturing, ship=building. storage and so forth. The first buildings were built in the 13th century with others being added over the centuries after.
The Arsenale is the largest pre-industrial production centre of the world. Its surface occupied forty-six hectars, and it would host up to 2000 workers a day in full swing. It is an important place for Venice, not only because the Serenissima fleet was built there, but also because these shipyards, depots and workshops were the symbol of the military, economical and political power Venice had back in time.
Although it was not completely filled, the majority of buildings housed either national or groups of artists. Because of the size of the spaces, few of them were filled completely which made the pieces easier to digest before going on to the next.
SOME OF MY FAVOURITES
Over the two days exploring the Biennale I saw a lot of great art and though some of it was overwhelming in scope, I definitely did come away with some I liked and some I remembered.
Pawel Althamer, Venetians. The unconventional use of materials in these sculptures really intrigued me. Althamer had life masks made from volunteers here in Venice, then attached them to metal armatures in various positions. These were draped with different types of thermo-plastics which were shaped and melted on the body to suggest muscle, ligament, tendon and skin, as well as clothing and hats. They remind me in some ways of Gunther van Hagen’s plastinated figures.
Shary Boyle, Music for Silence. This piece interested me in a number of ways. I found myself fascinated by the way that lighting can transform a piece. To me, the way she used lighting on the main piece transformed it into three separate pieces. The piece as a porcelain sculpture, in white with lighting that described its shape was interesting to me as a sculpture. The shadowed piece appeared to be formed of separate two dimensional pieces, like a collage, while the piece with the projected colour images on it became a nearly solid two dimensional piece. Her other sculptures on display were interesting, but didn’t affect me as much.
Yiqing Yin, In Between. Something about this spoke to me and I am not sure I can articulate it yet. This piece was in the Padiglione Venezia, a pavilion dedicated to textile works, along with other textile artists. The sketchy quality of the figure, the ethereal way the fabric move in the breeze, the excess thread which collected below and anchored the figure to the ground all seem to contribute to an otherworldly quality that appealed to me.
Patrick Van Caekenbergh, Drawings of Old Trees. As a naturalist artist, I really liked the devotion to detail of form and texture that are conveyed in these pieces.
R. Crumb, The Book of Genesis Illustrated. I was surprised and pleased to find R. Crumb represented at the Biennale. In the past, I have known fine art aficionados to dismiss his work as purely illustrative, after all, he’s only a comic book artist! But he is also a creative genius and, like Norman Rockwell and Maxfield Parrish, has given the U.S. many iconic images from Mr. Natural to Fritz the Cat and the Keep on Truckin’ slogan of the 1970’s. It seems only fitting that his 207 page black and white illustrated Story of Genesis be represented here. Each panel reflecting the biblical text in a way that has not been seen previously.
In addition to R. Crumb, there were a number of other American artists included in the Encyclopaedic Palace– Richard Serra, Robert Nagel, John DeAndrea, Charles Ray, Duane Hanson, Paul McCarthy, Eliot Porter, among many others. I find that my US-centric education has made them more familiar to me than their non-American counterparts, and although I am trying desperately to catch up, it is always reassuring to know that those artists that I studied in school and recognise are also recognised in a global context.
Other pieces I saw, felt compelled to photograph, and liked enough to include are:
On this trip, I took 538 photos, the majority of them at the Biennale. I will try to post some more of them later, possibly without comment. I think this post has gone on long enough as it is and I need to do something other than blog this weekend.
Below are some videos from the Biennale’s YouTube channel which go into greater detail about some of the pieces.
Pawel Althamer, Venetians
CANADA: Shary Boyle, Music for Silence
GREAT BRITAIN: Jeremy Deller, English Magic
FINLAND: Antti Laitinen, Falling Trees